Attila The Mom
My mom is absolutely the coolest person I know!
Taking a break from teaching English at the university in ChangSha, China for a year, she spent Thanksgiving in Yunnan (you-naan) Province of Southwestern China. Very close to Tibet.
(I've posted her letter about the experience below. Click on the Comments link at the bottom of *this* post to read.)
Here are some pics, and yes, that's her on the horse:
Everyone take note.. you only have one shot at life.. Mom.. you rock!
posted by miked @ 12:11 PM
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1 Comments:
Instead of celebrating Thanksgiving, which would call for impossible culinary creativity, I chose to travel. And what a trip!
I went to Lijiang (lee-gee-ong) city, in the Northwest section of the Yunnan (you-naan) Province of Southwestern China. It is the closest to Tibet I will get, and if my shallow breathing there is any indication of what would happen to my lungs in Tibet, then this is as close as I choose to wander.&nbs p;
Ancient Lijang City has a history of over 800-900 years. It had it’s beginnings in the Southern Song Dynasty. During the Ming Dynasty it was re-named, but today it is Lijiang. In 1925 a National Geographic explorer, J.F. Rock, discovered this small paradise and the unusual minority people in the region. He lived and studied with them for 25 years. Numerous articles were published in The N.Geo. while he was there. The most important work he accomplished was to translate the hieroglyphics of the Naxi (nah-shee) people. The writing and language of the Naxi/Dongba people was the documentation of their history and religious practices. The book Lost Horizons was written about this section of China. The Cultural Revolution failed to blot out this strong, proud and indomitable people. There ancestors were Mongolians who were nomadic and conquered China centuries ago. The y brought with them their language, religion, horses and ability to thrive in the harsh conditions of the mountains. They farm magnificent crops, the healthiest I have seen in China, have more than abundant crystal clear water from the mountains and are immaculate in their personal habits and dress. The society is semi-matriarchal and has two major divisions. The Dong-ba are the more rural people. I saw a dance to honor the animals they hunt where a Dongba Priest led the music and dance. He was unbelievable. They all wore silver crowns/headdress that looked like huge leaves standing high on their heads. Their robes were long and embro idered. The dancers were dressed like American Indians! The music sounded and looked so much like the Pueblo Indians I heard in New Mexico, that I am convinced of the theory that thousands of years ago it was the Mongols who migrated to the North American continent and became the first people of the Americas. They also look alike.
The Dongba religious totem is a frog, which represents longevity and cunning. The Naxi are those who in ancient times considered themselves “above†the Dong-ba, and condemned intermarriage. They are Buddhists and some practice the Buddhism of Tibet, although their totem is the Goat (Yak) as this animal gives birth easily and quickly…hence a wish for many children and the continuation of the culture. Now there is some intermarriage, but my impression is that the Naxi and Dong-ba choose to maintain their individual cultures and religious practices.
The Naxi are matriarchal, but nothing like the Mushi (moo-shee) whose women run everything. There is no marriage in the Mushi clan. The men come to the women’s dwellings at night and leave before the sun rises. Children are the women’s. They seem perfectly happy with this arrangement and can not understand why anyone would want a permanent arrangement when choice is dominant. They may have something!
My guide was Naxi. He knew all the BEST places to visit, as he was probably related to 90% of those we visited. We became friends and therefore I saw things “off the beaten pathâ€. I bought some batik, which is essentially an Indian art form imported with the opening of the silk trade/road. The designs, however, are definitely Naxi in their themes and designs. The village from which the Naxi come to town is called Dayan Zhen (die-aan-shen). Yak, cattle, sheep, go ats and chickens are the main sources of meat. Yak steak is out of this world… like really sweet fillet mignon! A desert made of Yak cheese fried and rolled in sugar was the best cheese desert I have ever tasted. Do you think I can get Yak cheese in the U.S.? Oh, well.
This city of clean streets filled with small canals and the freshest air in China, is ancient. The hotel in which I stayed was even of old traditional architecture (Ming). The streets are like small mazes and no vehicles are allowed. All must walk, even the merchants. Some small carts were used to bring charcoal for heat. The houses are called “one gate two housesâ€. An extended family lives in this compound. My guide will be married in December. He just finished his house which is attached to his fathers and grandfathers homes. Some have a gate and courtyard where a barn also may be located. Even the stalls and animals were clean. Flowers and plants are everywhere. Gardinias bloom in yards and along the streets with many other tropical flowers at the base of one of the largest mountains I have seen other than the Alps. Snow Dragon Mountain is the highest peak and has never been climbed by any human. It wa s snow covered when I was there, which is rare. It may snow 5-8 days a year. Marble is everywhere. Even the streets are made of huge blocks of marble. We should be so lucky!
The houses are of stone or brick and trimmed with carved, native pine. Many Naxi men have fabulous long hair. It is immaculate and really thick. The women and older men all cover their heads with a white or blue wrap/cap. The women wear a goat skin half shawl on their backs. Every woman dressed the same. They wear blue and white long outfits made for work, beauty, and to keep them warm. Embroidered medallions are on the back of the goatskin capes. There are other embroidered ties which all have meaning. The colors stand for various good luck wishes etc… They also have a small pleated apron in the front. Their shoes are small, flat and embroidered. They love to embroider and are the best I have seen. The MEN sew and do most of the art work! They carve pine in many decorative ways, wood burn designs, weave, emboss silver, (which is more than plentiful in mines to the north), and make copper vessels and paint.
Many Naxi still live in the remote mountains, and like it like that. The minority people are allowed to have two children. The Me-Da-Tso (may-dah-sew) and Ro-Ro-Tso (row-row-sew) are two major folk dances. I saw both. In the Me-Da-Tso there are no instruments used, but they sing. They hold hands and do a shuffle-step in a counter-clockwise circle. Their hands pump up and down. Not much body movement. The hunting dances, Ro-Ro-Tso, are mostly done by the young men and are VERY vigorous with stomping, twirling, crouching and singing to drums, also going in circles. They kick and use sticks for rhythm and to show power. The old Dongba (78 years old!) did the Ro-Ro-Tso for a while and moved like he was 20. He made the funniest faces…he was imitating a frog. He was humorous and very crafty.
I guess the one thing that impressed me, besides the spectacular scenery and cleanliness, was the powerful women. They are so absolutely self-assured and non-intimidated, yet polite and QUIET!!!! It was the quietest place I have been in China. Now, one small group of women vendors was feeling a little feisty, because one yelled “HELLOOOOO†in English to me. I turned to the group, joined them and yelled “HELLOOOOO†back. We had a contest as to who could yell the l oudest, until we all were laughing too hard. I ended the “helloooo†fest with a “Bye-Byeâ€. They were so accepting and fun. They are known for their peaceful ways and tolerance for any religious beliefs. There are actually 51 minority groups in Yunnan and there has only been one war between them in all of their history.
A long story, but I was impressed. I will try to attach a photo.
Mom
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